Square slanted-wall tent, sewn of water-repellent cotton canvas.
Description
Size is 10ft x 10ft at base, 8ft x 8ft at eves, 10ft tall at center, 6ft -5in tall at eves (side pole height) See “SETTING IT UP” below, for better measurements, etc.
New and improved version! All of the slant-wall tents have HAND SEWN SUPER DUTY GROMMETS. They can be set up with poles, frames, or even pipes and brackets.
Doors have overlap and double ties, to keep out the worst storms. An awning is attached over the door and extends out from the front to give you a shady area. This tent goes up quickly by simply staking it down in a nice neat square, and putting the the poles, then adding the ropes to make it all tight. The tent actually stays up with just the center pole, so that makes it easy to put in the side poles. Because it is designed to use a lot of poles, they can be super light! Aluminum, closet rod, or just about anything will work for the side poles. It is made for 5 poles per side and you can either put them vertical inside or lean them to the corner to give you more room. It only adds about ½ inch to make them leaners, so you can actually use the same length poles for either set-up.
We will have a bracket set available by December 10th. That will be a bracket set that allows elimination of the center pole.
The canvas is your choice of 12.6 or 15 ounce water-repellent cotton canvas, without caustic chemicals added, and absolutely no bad canvas smell. (select weight at right - 12.6 ounce can ship to Canada USPS)
Ropes end up about 8-11ft so they don't have to go very far out from the tent perfect for events like Pennsic where you don't have a lot of room!
Requires (not included):
13-16 side/awning poles 6ft-5in long with 3/8in pin in end. There are basically 5 grommets per side so you can customize it for whatever you want to do. Some people make permanent frames from wood and you would just use bolts to tie the tent to that.
18 tent pegs or stakes 12 inch landscape spikes work great (all homecenters have these)
1 center pole 10ft with 3/8in pin in end You can use wood, or threaded plumbing pipe if you need to take it apart. We usually have setup kits but they won't be available until our shop is back together in January.
18 ropes 8-11ft long with sliders. Tent is pretty stable without any ropes so basically they just hold the tent tight so it looks good.
SETTING IT UP
There are several ways to set up this tent.
1) Wood poles and ropes
Poles can be 1 ¼ to 2 inch dowels or 2x3’s with 3/8 inch pins in the ends. PVC is not strong enough. 2x3’s are the cheapest and strongest.
Cut the poles to 6ft-3 and drill a hole in the end to put in the pins. A tiny drop of any glue sets the pin in permanently. The pins can be made from metal rod from the home center, or if you are careful with them, wood dowel will also work. Usually they are cut to 6 inches and the hole is drilled about 3 inches deep so it sticks out 3 inches.
You will need at least 9 of the side/awning poles but can use more if you like. Unused grommet holes can be plugged if you want but very little rain comes in those holes. Some people use a drop of silicon caulk in the unused holes but that is optional.
The center pole can be anything 10ft long, but sometimes it is hard to haul around a 10ft pole so often a splice is used. I have seen 2x4’s used in a pinch, but often 1 inch threaded plumbing pipe is used with connectors. (comes in 5ft lengths at most home centers) Use the black iron instead of the galvanized as it looks better and the galvanized does not hold paint well. For the top and bottom, use a Floor Flange that fits that pipe. You can screw a wood disk to that flange (I try to include one with each tent or you can make one), and put a 3/8 inch bolt and nut through to make a tip adapter. (we sell those if you want us to make one).
You will need a rope on each pole, and usually it works better to have 2 on the corner ones.
Stakes can be landscape spikes, 12 inches long. You can get away with 6 inch ones at the wall bottoms but the rope ones should be 12 inches.
Rope is best at 3/8” made from sisal or manilla. Manilla rope can stain tents so don’t store it with the tent. Sisal can mold if put away wet so dry it when packing like you would a tent.
To set it up; open it up into a square, stretch it out and stake it down neatly. Then add the center pole. It should stay up by itself at that point and then you can add side poles and finally ropes. Lastly, put up the awning poles and ropes.
When you pack it away, make sure it is DRY or dry it IMMEDIATELY when you get home! Folding it neatly with make it much smaller to pack.
2) Frame set
We sell a set of 7 brackets that allow the tent to be set up with none or almost no ropes. It also eliminates the center pole.
It requires 4 8ft dowels, 4 6ft dowels, and 3 4ft dowels. One of the 4ft ones needs a pin in the end (comes with set). You can use sleeves to make the dowels take apart. On the frame set, the corner poles do not come down to the corners, but rather follow the sides.
3 T shaped brackets are used to replace the center pole. The T’s go in the middle of two opposite sides and the third T which is an open style goes in the middle. The short center pole slides up into that T. Directions come with the frame set. 1 inch conduit may be used for many of the dowels if desired, but looks a bit more modern than you might want, and is HEAVY to cart around.
3) Full wood frame
A 1x4 or 2x3 frame is built to fit the tent and is often assemble with angled brackets or hinges at the corners and 4 2x4 upright posts. This is the hard way to do it, but is often used when it needs to be set up indoors or for weeks on end at very long fairs.
4) Spreaders
We sell a 6 way bracket that allows for dowels to be used as spreaders to the corners. This works best for non-windy locations, but is easy to do.